At the first place, why should i bother to write down some specification of Proton Wira Special Edition? While Proton already stop promoting this car? Well, just for instant review of Proton Wira SE and Standard for car buyers in Malaysia to buy. Because now we found that many of Proton Wira used or second hand for sell around Malaysia and some of us need an information about this car unfortunately if you go to Proton’s Website, they are not providing full specification of Proton Wira. And here I try to compile some information about Proton Wira standard and SE for second hand car buyer’s review.
PROTON WIRA 1.3 & 1.5 SE SPECIFICATION – THE LEGENDARY MALAYSIA’S FAVOURITE CAR
Wira is the perfect family sedan for practical people like yourself: economical, comfortable and reliable. Proton Wira once upon a time have been the most famous and prefered car in Malaysia. Just because of its spaciousness and the affordable price like Proton Persona, its replacement model for today.
You believe in getting value for your money. That’s why Wira is perfect for you. Firstly, Wira offers you a great deal on price. It’s also designed to help you save in many ways. You’ll be surprised to find driving Wira a very comfortable and pleasant experience indeed.
Wira lets you enjoy economical pricing – plus a host of attractive features:
Contemporary design
Aerodynamic design adds to fuel economy
Interior
Contoured support seats add to driving comfort
Advanced coil spring suspension system for greater stability and easy handling
Noise, vibration and harshness reduction for more enjoyable ride
Minimal engine maintenance required
Advanced fuel management systems lets you travel further per litre
This is what i like the most on Proton Wira: The interior quality. If you compare today’s proton car such as Saga and Persona, you will see much different in terms of interior quality such as noise reduction, soft material for dashboard, nice dashboard design etc.
The suspension is also better but the car is too lowered until you have so many difficulties when you reach a bumper on the road where you always stuck with your Proton Wira. And that is why many of the wira owner change the spring to higher adjustment and many people call it “wira sawah” then.
The Proton Wira is a car manufactured by Malaysian carmaker Proton, released as a four-door saloon and four-door hatchback beginning 1993. The Wira was intended as a newer alternative to the Proton Saga Iswara. The Wira was later planned to be replaced by two similar in-house designed Proton cars: The Proton Gen-2 (launched in 2004 to replace the “Aeroback” hatchback variant) and the Proton Persona (launched in 2007 to replace the saloon variant).
PROTON WIRA 1.3 GLi STANDARD SPECIFICATION (ENGINE)
1.3GLi
5-speed MT (F5M21)
4G13P SOHC
Multi Point Injection (MPI) Fuel System
Max output : 74 bhp (55 kW; 75 PS) @ 6,000 rpm
Max torque : 108 N·m (80 ft·lbf) @ 4,000 rpm
Max speed : 163 km/h (101 mph)
Fuel consumption : 10km/l – 13km/l
PROTON WIRA 1.5 GLi STANDARD SPECIFICATION (ENGINE)
1.5GLi
5-speed MT (F5M21) / 3-speed AT (F3A21)
4G15P SOHC
Multi Point Injection (MPI) Fuel System
Max output : 89 bhp (66 kW; 90 PS) @ 6,000 rpm
Max torque : 126 N·m (93 ft·lbf) @ 3,000 rpm
Max speed : 174 km/h (108 mph) (manual); 165 km/h (103 mph) (automatic)
Fuel Consumption : 10.5km/l – 13km/l
DIMENSION AND CHASSIS SPEC OF PROTON WIRA in mm
ABOUT PROTON WIRA SE SPECIAL EDITION
Wira SE is a good car. Good in a way that enthusiasts would describe it. For starters, the sporty Wira SE wears Gti spec 16-inch tyres that fills the wheel arches. The five spoke alloys themselves look the part and it lifts the appearance of the car in a way never before.
Proton is not like Perodua. Proton adjust fully on its “SE” model including the performance, not like Perodua that just make a facelift of its “SE” model.
To ensure that this doesn’t compromise ride, in the same way that it didn’t in the fabulous Gti, Proton did away with the standard car’s suspension and had up rated the dampers, coil springs and bushings. Although they had enough information on how to make a car behave well with low-profile tyres, they had to start from scratch with the Wira SE as they couldn’t take the GTi’s suspension and plonk it into the Wira SE as it is a bigger and heavier car.
They have done a swell job at it. It reminds one of the GTi’s set up but still feels amazing considering that they have managed to replicate the surefooted feel of the Lotustuned hatch in a longer and heavier car such as the Aeroback. Hit a bump and the suspension just soak it up without ever transmitting the shock into the cabin. The steering is fast and accurate with just the right amount of weight to balance at low and high speeds.
Where most cars with low-profile tyres just crash in bumps and transmit suspension noise, the Wira SE hides them from the occupants.
WIRA SE DIFFERENCES ON CHASSIS
The brilliant suspension tuning work is complemented by a retuned exhaust that is said to offer up to 8 per cent “more power” to the car. Whatever it may be, the 1.5-litre lump sure does feel alive. The car has a very lively throttle response, and especially meaty around 3000-4000rpm.
The number of things that they’ve got right with the car definitely justifies buying it for the handling alone but priced at RM49,000 makes it the bargain of the year.
Yes, this Wira SE is a great car for car enthusiasts. The handling is soo good and different with the standard proton Wira with minimum body roll while cornering with sharp steer. I remember when trying my brother’s Wira SE ( black version picture above this post ) after we have a picnic at Ulu yam with very zigzag road i still manage to handle the car and feel safe even at higher speed.
But now Proton has replaced this model with Proton Persona. The price for second hand Proton Wira Standard and SE now is around RM25k to RM35k.
If you want to buy between Wira 1.3 and 1.5, I would suggets just go for 1.5 because the performance of Wira 1.3 is too bad, not responsive and very high fuel consumption.
I hope my description here will help you a bit on the Proton Wira standard and SE review.
hihihi…aritu dh g cek, nk wat alignment mmg tyr dh abis haus…tukar dua tyr :( wat algmnt, then bunyi pun xde..hihihi…hrp2 lps ni ok la…
ala ah chong..jalan2 je la kalau xjd keje cni pun :p
ah chong…aku owg kl..bab tin biskut tu, tnye je..hahaha..klu boleh,mane boleh kasi bia je tin biskut tu..kasi spray laa…xpn kasi cover dengan insuflex la..xde la nmpk tin nye tu..hahaha..aku de tgk owg puteh wat sndiri, smart woo..siap de tapak ngan pnutup lagi tu..
eder: yea ke? hahaha… betul tu… tenet mesti ada. klu takde tak tau la dunia mcm mane yea… world without barriers..
niza: InsyaAllah… nak gak ke sana tapi tak tau ble lagi. nanti nak ke sana blh tlg bwk jln2 ngan kete power tu…
black: tau.. klu blh buat sendiri pakai aluminium. ko blh adjust brape besar ko nak wat pasal air intake hose tu pendek aje… ko bg no phone ko kat aku. klu tak anta email kat aku. niz_az82@yahoo.com. kl katne?
ah chong..aku de mrate2..cheras..wangsa maju..keramat..setiawangsa..bangsar..ampang..area aku la tu..he3..fb ko kai address tu gak ke?
de sape2 penah dengar tak psal poton wira kai enjin v6 1.6 jepun?boleh komen sket tak?..tq..!
ko nie kaum nomad ke asyik berpindah2? v6 1.6 ada tapi halfcut la… ada org pakai tapi tak tau pe performance die tapi yg aku tau maintenance mmg tinggi. timing belt untuk v engine aje dah seribu lebih.. lagipun klu pakai ia akan memadatkan lagi ruang engine. mcm perdana v6. tu ajela yg aku tau… komen lain2 ko kene tunggu mr.s or eder ajela…. haah. tak pun ko cari ‘speed king ah chong’
x berbaloi klau masuk enjin v6..maintanance dh tentu tinggi….enjin pun nampak serabut..bab perfomance lbih kurang na 4g15 je…drp v6 baik sumbat enjin na 4g92 soch…dh tentu ok….x nk pening kepala pkailh enjin 4g15 selamanya…haha
Enjin v6 tu kod dia 6a10. Asal dari keta mitsu galant. Performance, lebih baik pakai 4g91 or 4g92 sohc mcm eder ckp. Enjin v6 ni berat, dia takde tork surge mcm enjin 4 silinder straight. Kalo utk kete besar takpe, sbb pecutan bkn keutamaan, tapi utk kete kecik dan ringan mcm wira, membazir la.
Maintenance sedia tahu, mcm v6 yg lain gk.
eder: pakai 4g92, masuk block n head 93, ligthten flywheel, crank n cam pulley. port n polish. peh…. dah cukup mantap untuk main ngan 4agze. masalahnye aku peminat engine 4ag. hehehe…. tapi best pasal dapat performance cantik n tak kuat mkn minyak lak tu…
callenish: ko ckp galant br aku ingat engine tu dr galant. dr tadi aku pk dr kete mane engine tu dtg… mmg betul maintenance tinggi. sape dah pernah pakai v6 taula cost maintenancenye. klu nak sgt pakai v6 baik pakai perdana punye. puas ati.
Like callenish pnye komen..ha3..detail..
..4g92 tu mivec kan..sohc ke?
Boley trangkan tak pe beza tork surge dgn hp?
Nie kan tmpt ruang blaja kan..he3
Ah chong..air ramp aku xde pn lobang len slain lobang air filter tu…puas aku godeh2 air ramp tu, ke aku pnye model dolu2 pnye..he3
Sapa ley tlg bg tnjuk ajar nk adjust clutch nie???
Black: 4G92 ada 3 variant
4G92P SOHC 16 Valve
Total Displacement – 1597cc
Bore – 81.0mm
Stroke – 77.5mm
Compression Ratio – 10:1
Maximum Output – 83 kW (113 PS; 111 bhp) @ 6,000 rpm
Maximum Torque – 137 N·m (101 ft·lbf) @ 5,000 rpm
4G92 DOHC 16 Valve
Total Displacement – 1597cc
Bore – 81.0mm
Stroke – 77.5mm
Compression Ratio – 11:1
Maximum Output – 108 kW (147 PS; 145 bhp) @ 7000 rpm
Maximum Torque – 149 N·m (110 ft·lbf) @ 4500 rpm
4G92-MIVEC DOHC 16 Valve
Total Displacement – 1597cc
Bore – 81.0mm
Stroke – 77.5mm
Compression Ratio – 11:1
Maximum Output – 128 kW (174 PS; 172 bhp) @ 7,500 rpm
Maximum Torque – 167 N·m (123 ft·lbf) @ 7,000 rpm
HP: kuasa maksimum yg dapat dihasilkan oleh enjin. selalunya mempengaruhi top speed (measure dlm hp/ps/kW).
Tork: daya kilasan, mempengaruhi pecutan (measure dlm Nm, Kg-m)
tork surge: berapa cepat ko capai peak tork. sbg contoh, enjin v6 selalunya bkn high revving punya enjin dan utk dia pick up rev lebih lambat dari enjin 4 silinder sbb nature enjin v6 berat, byk komponen berbanding enjin 4 silinder.
kalau ko compare enjin 6a10 dgn 4g92 dohc non mivec, tork lebih kurang, peak tork pun pada rpm yg sama iaitu 4k rpm, tapi enjin 4g92 lagi cepat cecah rpm 4k tu, so dah tentu pecutan 4g92 lebih baik. tapi dari segi top speed pulak, 6a10 lebih baik, walaupun hp lebih kurang sama, tapi sbb nature enjin v6, berat dan berat tu memberi momentum yg lebih pada enjin, so dia boleh sustain dan dpt lebih top speed.
kesimpulannya, kita kena tau kelebihan dan kekurangan setiap enjin, lepas tu baru kita pilih jalan mana nak mod utk sesuaikan dgn objektif kita.
amik contoh 4g15 la callenish..kete poton pn aku xabeh study ag nie..he3
ape yg dimaksudkan dgn: max pwer:66kW (89hp)@6000rpm?
ape yg dimaksudkan dgn:max torque:126Nm @3000rpm?
bore&stroke (75x82mm):saiz pinston & stroke tu ke?
max speed:173km/h…ni abeh laju ley g kan?
acceleration (0-100km/h): 12.1sec…dlm mase 12.1sec meter ley sampai ke 100km kan..?
tlg..nuubiess …he3
tlg trangkan ape mksud nie..
Max output : 89 bhp (66 kW; 90 PS) @ 6,000 rpm
Max torque : 126 N·m (93 ft·lbf) @ 3,000 rpm
Max speed : 174 km/h (108 mph) (manual)
tlg ajar skali, cmne nk adjust clutch…
Max power: 89hp@6000rpm. Maknanya enjin tu ada kuasa maksimum sbyk 89hp dan kuasa maksimum tu tercapai pada rpm 6000. Sama gk konsep pada max torque tu. benda ni senang nak paham kala baca power chart/graph. Bore x stroke tu lebar dan tinggi combustion area pada block silinder. Saiz piston lebar sama, tapi tinggi piston tak mesti sama.
173km/h tu top speed.
Nak adjust clutch aku tak pandai dan aku tak tau pun camna nak adjust. Yg aku tau clutch tu bergantung pada clutch, spring dan pressure plate yg ko pakai. Kalo yg racing, semi racing mmg agak keras la. Tapi yg standard mcm biasa la.
waaa..info bru laja rini…kire mcm cth kt ats tu,klu nk mcapai top speed, enjin kne bkeje kras until 6000 rpm la ye..
aku kai clutch stndrd je..cme mr.s de ckp,kasi pusing clutch cable tu 1kali,tang mane nk pusing tu?
callenish dah bg detail pun ko tak paham tak tau la black… hahahaha…. pasal tu perbandingan kete klu org yg sukekan power die akan bandingkan max output brape serta tork. tork nie kira brape kuat pickup la senang cite.. hp lak mcm ko main game lawan2… klu hp tinggi, tinggi la power yg blh produce n makin kuat la sesuatu engine tu. mcm aku nak beli kelisa. nape aku nak beli kelisa walaupun viva ada n lebih kurang same aje perbezaan hp engine n same aje cc nye? tu nak kene keadaan kete tu lak n daya graviti. tu dah advance.. kite blaja kete kite dulu. bile kita mod kete kita ke high performance, hp dan tork akan berubah. ble hp kuat, kete pun kuat la. ble hp rendah, kurang powerla… ko nengok kete sport sudah. contoh mustang shelby super snake, hp yg kuat n tork yg tinggi. pasal tu kete tu klu ko tekan aje minyak terus, tayar akan spin lebih (burnout). kete2 mcm nie klu kat selekoh diorg takkan layan lap oleh krn hp yg kuat n boleh menyebabkan spinout or drift. kete kita blasah ajela layan lap selagi tak berpusing or terbalik.. nak cite kang panjang lebar dalam nie… otai2 lain blh terang kan secara terperinci. callenish terangkan tu dah cukup detail dah..
Shahrul Wira1.5 dan semua pembaca,
saya nak tambah sket pasal gnd cable tu.
sbl tambah gnd cable amik / rekod data dulu bape bacaan ohms antara terminal -ve batt dgn body.
nak cantik jgn beli multimeter cap ayam,
tapi klau x de kegunaan sangat dalam bidang letrik / letronik cer cuba pinjam dari member2 / bengkel yg multimeter dpt buat pengukuran 0.001 ohm. ini lebih detail lagi. baru kita akan nampak berapa % penambahbaikan selepsa pasang gnd cables2 yg baru.
pastikan guna “PURE COPPER” cable lagi bagus jika ukuran anggaran 3 kaki cable tu bacaan dia sekitar 0.001 ohms.
mana nak dapat pure copper? boleh je amik 3 core wire spt yg ada pada extension plug 3 pin yg biasa kita gunakan pd soket 240V di rumah2.
boleh beli kat mana2 kedai spt hardware.
camna plug nak buat?
anda hanya perlu twistkan (pintalkan) ketiga2 wire td iaitun hijau,biru dan coklat menjadi satu, komdian clampkan dgn cable lug.
klau x de cable lug nak wat camna?
gunakan klip buaya utk ikat .
camna nak ikat cable lug?
gunakan clamper atau kalu tak de gunakan player atau ragum atau solder iron dan solder lead paterikan cable lug atau apit-G putarkan perlahan2 supaya cable lug melekat dgn wire.
boleh juga menyewa peralatan sekejap di kedai2 harware yg berdekatan.
utk kos murah dan menjimatan dan kpd yg sukakan DIY boleh lah buat benda2 macam ni. kepuasan tak ternilai dgn wang ringgit bila sst tu menghasilkan result yg bagus.
nak bagus boleh juga gunakan 3 cables yg ditwietkan menjadi 1 dgn kata lain ada 9 wires yg ditwiskan.
ia ibarat longkang2 kecil yg dicantumkan menjadi 1 sungai yg besar supaya aliran air menjadi lancar dan tidak sesak.
Gaye ah chong nie mcm mrh sgt je kt aku nie..nk blajo ney..jgn le mare..thank 4 the info..
NSR..knape de beza wire coper dgn wire yg warne crumm tu?klu pkai cble yg wat wiring umah (hitam,hijau,merah tuu), ok tak?bacaan kne jgn krang dari 0.001 ohms ea?
copper lagi bagus dan stabil serta murah berbanding dgn pengalir terbaik (emas)
copper tahan haba, pengoksidaan dll lain faktor lagi.
wire crum lebih cepat panas.
wire buat rumah tu pun boleh asalkan pure copper jgn beli made in china, murah ttp bahaya kerana zink yg disadur dgn copper
dan pastikan lebih besar wire lagi bagus, senang pengaliran arus
NSR..kalo pkai wire welding kire ok la kan?klu lbih besar wire lg bgus,so xperlu la byk sgt wat grouding cble ni, just buat 5 point je kot..ok x?klu cble tu pjg sgt pn xelok gak kan.
As Salam Semua..
Nk tnya ckit..
klu nk reset ecu perlu cabut kpla batri kan,,
kpla batri yg mna perlu dicabut dulu,
merah ka hitam,
klu nk pasg blik, perlu pasg yg mna dlu…
Tq semua
+ve
wire welding tu dah kira terbaik lah cuma harga dia mahal. tapi kan dah macam terlalu beso plak cam nak grounding kapal.wire2 elektrikal ni murah sket boleh beli loose atau by berapa meter kita nak pakai.
wire welding ni cuma nampak kemas dan cantik tak serabut spt beberapa kabel yg digabungkan,
wire2 yg digabungkan pun masih boleh nampak kemas jika anda gunakan spiral casing atau pun fleksibel hose elektrikal yg biasa dibuat utk pendawaian rumah yg berwarna putih/ merah ataupun hitam.
klau x silap lah dulu buat ujikaji di makmal menggunakan multimeter agilent 30441-A pada kadaran panjang sekitar 1.5 meter, kerintangannya sekitar 0.082 ohms, tetapi bila ditistkan ketiga2 wire hijau, coklat dan biru bacaan rintangannya turun kepada 0.045 ohms. disini menunjukkan lagi besar wire makin rendah rintangannya.
NSR..mkne nye, nilai xxxohms semakin rndah lg bgus la ye..ingatkan smakin tinggi, semakin bgus..
black: aku tak marah, hangin aje… wakakaka…. rintangan lagi rendah lagi bagus. maknenye takde sekat2. mcm ko bawak moto atas highway, klu angin lagi kuat lagila bnyk rintangan n slow la jwbnye ko bwk moto tu. klu takde rintangan, sure laju aje moto ko tu. hahahaha…. tak paham gak lagi? tak taula…
sory otai2..nk tnya lg,,
di bwh enjin keta sy mcm leaking, minyk melekat pada luar enjin. tp xtau leaking 2 dtg dr mna…
adakah tanda2 oil sump bocor, klu bocor brapa kosnya dr a-z…
tq
Mzed..kasi cuci enjin dlu..pastu ari2 tgk la enjin tu,tang mane yg de leaking..
ahchong..aku nie bkn stdy mechanical ke,wiring ke,enginering ke,electronical ke,electrical ke punnn..sbab tu la aku laja kt sini je punn..klo ko da terel sgt,bkak la bngkel,meh aku hantar kete aku..ari2 pn xpe..ko repair,aku byr..ckp je bpe hengget,aku byar la ilmu ko tu..nk ngaja pn nk xnk je aku tgk..
black,
aku bagi contoh formula voltan (V) = arus (I) darab rintangan (R)
katakan 12V = I X 1 ohms
so nilai arus ialah =>12V / 1ohms = 12Ampere
jika rintangan 5 ohms maka => 12V / 5 ohms = 2.4 ampere
so kat sini mana lebih besar arus dia?
maka jika nak kira kuasa (watt) formula dia ialah (P) = I X V
katakan arus (12A) X 12V =>144watt
lagi satu (2.4A) X 12V => 28.8watt
so kat sini mana lebih kuat kuasa dia?
black..relex bro jngn emo..x mau gaduh2….pesanan iklas dr sy….hehe..sory x dpt follow forum..just dpt baca je tp nk komen x sempat…hope all heppy….
black,
belajar kat sini pun boleh cuma kurang sket lah sbb lg bagus teori n praktikal, “hands on” lagi cepat paham..
aku ni pun berpuluh taun belajar letrik / letronik baru paham.
itu pun ada benda2 yg tak paham2 jugak maklumlah otak dah berkarat
Tq Black…
klu tukar gasket oilsump brapa kosnya skali ngan upah..
tq2
Mzed
kebnykn bengkel x pkai gasket oil sum…diorg taruh silicone sealant terus dekat oil sum…distrubutor oil seal,gasket head, oil seal dr cam pully smpai crank pully kena check juga….semua tu antara punca leaking…
tq Eder…
aduyai, bnyk nk kena check ni..poket pn dh kering…hehe..
alahai black…. lu cepat emo la…. cam pompuan. ckp memain camtu pun serious… susah la mcm tu…
takpe black. pasnie aku tak ckp pape dah… aku diam aje.. hahahahaha…
NSR..soklan no1 tu, yg 12Ampere lg bsr, sbb rintangan (R) rendah..(macam mane nak dptkan nilai (R) tu?)
Soklan no2, arus 12A lg bkuase dgn bekal 144 watt..
Pe yg aku pham la kan, beteri supply 12v current, dan disbabkan beberape rintangan (R) , nilai yg kua dipanggil (watt)..klu rintangan rendah, nilai watt akan tggi..nilai (R) ni la yg diambil kira dlm cth grounding cable kan..
ok black
nampaknya anda dah makin paham tentang konsep pengkuran nih.
anda perlu letakkan prob multimeter tu pd point (-ve) battery dan 1 prob lg pd body atau throttle body atau mana2 point grounding.
letak mana2 probe (samada merah / hitam ) tak kisah sbb skrg ni kita nak ukur kerintangan bukan ukur voltan,dapatkan berapa nilai ohm, lepas psg bbrapa gnd kabel, ukur lagi nilai terkini.
soklan no 2, batteri keta akan supply 12volt bukan current. current unit dia ampere (A).current ni lah arus.
Watt ini ialah unit ukuran untuk kuasa. unit ukuran kuasa juga diukur pd HP (horse power)>> ukuran lama. Unit SI metrik diukur pada Watt. 1 HP = 746 watt.
cara mudah nak kira jumlah kuasa (anggaran je) ialah 12Volt darabkan dgn 80Amp = 960Watt. >> ini anggaran kasar jumlah kuasa elektrik yg ada / terdapat pada keta wira.
mana dapat 80Amp? sila tengok pada fius kat batt tu
pergh..tenkiu NSR…paham dah..mcm mane nk tahu alternator tu shat atau tak..mksud aku,die mngecas cantik ke tak..
nak tau alternator mengecas atau tidak? batt yg sihat bila enjin mati akan dapat sekitar12.6~12.8V
enjin hidup tanpa beban on spt lampu dll bacaan dpt sekitar 14.2V
klau voltan battery cepat susut maka alternator problem itupun jika guna batt baru.
NSR..mcm mne nk test?mcm kete aku de volt meter,ley caye ke meter tu..he3..rase nye klu kete aku ngah run xkisah la lmpu atau radio on atau xon, xpnah la cecah 14V..xtau la meter tu btul ke x..he3..kalo enjin off, btri xsmpai 12V..last skali tukau beteri,akhir taun 2010.
de wira ni kai bumper yg besi kt depan tu..grang je tgok..dari body part kete pe ea??sape tau,tlg gtau..he3